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SCOUTMASTER OREN'S GEAR TIPS
General Comments on Gear:
Good gear is cheaper in the long run.
It is really tempting to purchase "cheap" inexpensive gear
that looks a whole lot like the expensive stuff you see in the high-end
backpacking stores. However, such gear often leads to disappointment,
or worse. If the gear does not perform its function well in the back
country, it could be dangerous. At best, you will likely replace it
with better designed and better constructed gear soon enough, causing
your savings to evaporate.
Quality gear, however, should perform its function well right
from the start and give you years of service. For example, my father
purchased a quality down sleeping bag for me when I was a young
Scout in the late 60's. After my son used the bag on many trips,
we just now have "retired" it from active duty. It still
gets used for "sleep overs." It was an expensive bag for
my father to purchase, but on a per-night-used basis it was a very
"cheap" price.
It is quite daunting and expensive to fully equip a new Scout with
backpacking gear. The Scout will be growing and, thus, outgrowing
much of his gear. My best advice is to go slow. Borrow gear from
other Scout families, especially gear that older Scouts may have
outgrown, such as smaller-sized backpacks. Not only will this save
money, (A Scout is Thrifty), but it will give the Scout the chance
to evaluate whether he likes that type of gear.
Also, there are alternatives to purchasing gear at full-bore retail
prices. Online shopping can be quite lucrative. Look for "outlet"
websites, some of which are connected to famous outdoors retailers.
Look for sales and coupon offers. Check out online auction sites
and garage sales for some gems of good, used equipment. (One Scouter
I know has an extensive collection of backpacking stoves that he
has purchased at garage sales. None of them cost him more than $15!)
In addition, there is a well-respected manufacturer of quality
outdoor gear which offers a 45% discount to Scouts and Scouters.
They make backpacks, sleeping bags and tents. If you are interested,
please see me and I will get you information on the gear and a current
price sheet. I haven't purchased from them yet, but I have heard
many good things about this company from Scouters who have.
When in doubt, ASK!
Please feel free to ask the adult leaders your specific questions
about gear and shopping for gear. We want to make sure that the
Scouts are properly equipped and have a fun, safe challenge in the
back country.
Comments on Specific Gear:
Pack & Rain Cover
There are two basic types of backpacks: external frame and internal
frame. Either one will work fine for our outings. Each type has
its advantages and disadvantages. External frame packs are less
expensive, allow better ventilation and usually have more pockets
to allow for easier access to your gear while on the trail. Internal
frame packs are considered to be more "high tech," carry
the load closer to the body for better balance and maneuverability.
Again, either type will work well.
The carry capacity should be at least 4,500 cubic inches. This
will allow enough space to carry the Scout's personal gear and the
Scout's share of group gear (tents, cooking gear, food, etc.). Externals
usually have an open area for a sleeping bag to be strapped on.
This needs to be taken into account is assessing the external's
carry capacity. A large sleeping bag could take up 2,000 cubic inches.
Every backpack needs to have padded shoulder straps and a quality,
padded belt. The belt allows most of the weight to be carried on
the hips, rather than hanging from the shoulders. Also, a sternum
strap will help stabilize the pack.
Fit is more important than about anything else. The critical measurement
is torso length. Of course, this will be constantly changing as
the Scout matures. Accordingly, plan on using a couple of different
sized packs during the Scout's career (see above about buying a
used, out-grown pack) or purchase a pack that has an adjustable
length.
Each pack should also have a properly-sized (will cover the pack
and the usual stapped-on items) rain/snow cover. These can either
be specifically designed for backpacks (last a long time) or can
be large-enough plastic bags with appropriate holes cut in (cheap,
but short-lived).
Sleeping Bag
The next piece of critical equipment is the sleeping bag. Quality
is key, here. The bag should be rated to 15 or 20 degrees F. (0
degrees for snow camping. Alternatives include renting a winter
bag or using two three-season bags.) However, be very, very cautious
about temperature ratings. There are no government or industry standards
on how to temperature rate a sleeping bag and some low-end manufacturers
can be quite "optimistic" to put it charitably
with their ratings. I have seen "0 degree" bags
that were only suitable for staying over at a buddy's well-heated
house for the night.
There are two main shapes: mummy and rectangular. Scouts should
avoid rectangular bags for back country use. The mummy bag is far
more efficient and lighter.
There are two main types of insulation: down and synthetic. Again,
each has its advantages and disadvantages. Down is lighter, warmer,
more compressible and lasts a long time. It is also more expensive
and not worth anything if it gets wet. Quality synthetic filling
is less expensive and will maintain some of its warmth (and little
of its comfort) even if wet. However, it loses its insulating loft
far faster than quality down, is heavier and more bulky than down.
If the Scout is mature enough to keep his bag dry, even in rain
and snow, then down is a good choice, if it meets the family budget.
Also, some bags have waterproof/breathable shells. Though more
expensive, they are very useful for down bags that would otherwise
lose their insulating capacity if they got wet.
This is one area where you should be cautious. Most backpackers
end up buying a high-quality bag. However, most of them had already
purchased one or more low-quality, ineffectual bags first. That
simply adds to the eventual cost. It is better to save money on
a quality bag through careful shopping (sales, closeouts, Internet,
used-but-in-good-condition) than to "make do" with a low-quality,
will-need-to-be-replaced bag.
Sleeping Pad
A sleeping pad is not only for comfort. It also provides needed
insulation from the ground. The Scout's body will compress the sleeping
bag's insulation and cause cold spots. Also, a large portion of
a sleeper's heat is lost through conduction to the ground. Closed
cell pads provide the least expensive and lightest ground insulation.
They are either rolled or some designs are folded. Also, quality
"self-inflating" pads are very useful, especially the
new lighter weight versions. They are more expensive and weighty,
but many feel the extra comfort is worth it. "Air mattresses"
have no place on Scout trips, as they are heavy, cumbersome and
cold due to convection currents.
Pads should be no wider than 20 inches. The 25 inch pads are for
car camping, not backpacking. They may be either full or 3/4 length.
For snow camping, two pads should used, at least one being closed-cell
foam.
Hiking Boots
Scouts' feet seem to grow faster than anything else. Accordingly,
be cautious about spending too much money on hiking boots until
the Scout is nearly adult sized.
The important features to look for are full-leather uppers, stiff
lug soles and sturdy ankle support. The leather should be waterproofed
by using a wax-based "after market" leather conditioning
product. Gore-Tex is nice, but expensive and can lead to excessive
foot sweat.
Most important, is fit. Do not shop for boots by price and features.
Shop by fit. Wear your hiking socks (see below) when trying them
on.
Also, be sure to "break in" the boots well before the
backpack trip. Start by wearing them , with your regular hiking
socks, for short periods of time around the house. Be sure to have
them laced tightly and properly, as you will be making the creases
that will stay with your boots forever. Gradually increase the time
and distance you are wearing the new boots. If you have any foot
discomforts, stop and have the store or a boot repair shop address
your problems. Remember, your boots will be tougher than your feet!
You might also want to look into aftermarket insoles, which provide
your feet with more support. There is even a new insole, which you
heat in an oven and mold to your feet.
Hiking Socks
To prevent blisters, quality socks are important. Avoid cotton.
I recommend using thin, wicking synthetic liners and thick wool
socks. The Scout should carry at least two (if not three) pairs.
Rain Gear
A lightweight rain jacket, with hood, and rain pants can insure
a good time, even on a rainy trip. We camp year-round and in all
kinds of weather. Look for light weight and breathability (or at
least ventilation). Heavy rain slickers are best for fishing boats,
not for backpacking trips.
Tent / Bivy Sack
There is a bewildering array of tents: freestanding vs. non-freestanding,
aluminum poled vs. fiberglass poled; single walled vs. double walled,
full rain fly vs. partial rain fly, dome vs. tunnel vs. A-frame
etc. The great news is that Troop 14 has the tents, so the Scouts
do not need to purchase or bring any.
Some Scouts prefer to use "bivy sacks" on three-season
outings. These are simply waterproof/breathable bags which cover
the sleeping bag and provide protection from rain and dew. Combined
with a lightweight tarp to provide protection for the Scout's head
and gear, they can be an alternative to using a tent, even on a
rainy trip.
Bivy sacks are also very useful when using snow shelters, such
as igloos and snow caves.
Beware, however, that these "minimalist" bivy sacks can
cost more than a backpacking tent! Thus, they are totally an optional
item and should be purchased, if at all, with great care and after
skillful shopping.
Eating Gear
Each Scout is responsible for bringing his own eating gear. (Marking
them is a darned good idea.) For a backpacking trip, the Scout should
have a fork and spoon (or only a spoon or even a "spork"),
a bowl and a drinking cup (preferably insulated). When not backpacking,
extra utensils and a plate would be handy. The preferred material
for the bowl and plate is lexan, which retains heat well and is
virtually unbreakable. However, some Scouts prefer the traditional
aluminum B.S.A. cook/eating kit.
Water Bottle / Bladder
Proper hydration on an outing is critical. Each Scout is responsible
for keeping a supply of drinking water with him at all times! He
should have a canteen, water bottle and/or a newfangled"hydration
bladder." The best low-cost approach is to use a wide-mouthed
lexan water bottle. Lexan does not pick up off-flavors and can withstanding
boiling water. A disposable water bottle will work, most of the
time, but may not withstand the rigors of a back country trip.
Some Scouts prefer to carry a "hydration bladder," which
is a plastic bag connected to a sipping tube. This allows the Scout
to drink while hiking and tends to encourage better hydration. Some
backpacks come with built-in bladder or with pouches for bladders.
However, one can easily use a bladder with just about any backpack.
Speaking of Bladders
Waking in the middle of night needing to make a "bathroom
run" during cold and/or inclement weather is one of the banes
of backpacking. I recommend (usually to deaf ears) the use of a
"pee bottle." I use an old wide-mouthed plastic water
bottle, which I have wrapped with duct tape. (The duct tape ensures
that I do not mistake my water bottle for my pee bottle and also
is an emergency repair and first aid item.) No more leaving my nice,
warm sleeping bag in the middle of the night!
Knife
Once the Scout has earned his Totin' Chip, he can (and should)
carry a small, sharp folding knife. So-called Swiss Army knives
and multi-tools are very handy. NOTE: Sheath knives are not allowed
on Scouting trips. (I can't even bring my beloved official BSA sheath
knife from my youth!)
Towel
A small chamois-style towel is very handy. They are lightweight,
highly absorbent and dry quickly. They should be marked and have
a tab so that they can be hung to dry.
Compass
Each Scout should carry (and know how to use) a baseplate or orienteering
compass. These compasses have a baseplate and a rotating bezel which
act like a protractor. Features such as sighting mirrors and declination
adjustments are nice, but not necessary.
Avoid the accessory compasses, which point to north, but are not
designed for serious navigation.
Flashlights
For backpacking, weight is everything. So, there is no need or
place for heavy flashlights. Many prefer to use the headlamp-style
LED lights. They are very light weight and the batteries appear
to last forever. Also, headlamp lights allow the Scout to use both
hands for pitching a tent, eating, reading or even playing cards.
(Of course, each Scout should carry a spare set of batteries that
actually fit his light.)
Thermal Underwear
Good, thick polypropylene thermal long underwear are a necessity
on a snow trip and can be very useful if we encounter cold weather
on other trips. Always, always, always avoid cotton. The popular
saying among search and rescue personnel is that "Cotton kills."
When it gets wets it stays wet and absorbs great quantities of body
warmth. I find it unconscionable that many stores sell "100%
cotton thermal underwear." Polypropylene (and other quality
synthetics) will wick moisture away from the body and still provide
warmth even if wet.
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